Cerro Torre Climbed by "Fair Means"

Kruk, Kennedy skip Compressor bolts

Jan 18, 2012
Outside Magazine

American climbers Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk made the first "fair means" ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre's southeast ridge on Monday in Patagonia. The pair climbed the 10,262-foot peak without using any of the 450 bolts placed by first acensionist Cesare Maestri in 1970. Alpinist Colin Haley, who watched the pair through a camera zoom lens, estimated that the climbers took approximately 13 hours to climb from their bivy on the shoulder of the mountain to the summit. Maestri's use of a gas-powered compressor to drill a bolt ladder up the route's final two pitches—a decision that significantly reduced the difficulty of the climb—has long been controversial.

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