Brian Kim Climbs Trad Testpiece Iron Monkey

Oct 15, 2010
Outside Magazine


Matt Wilder working Iron Monkey (via ClimbingNarc)

Just a few weeks after his surprise second-place finish at the Nor'easter bouldering competition, Brian Kim has made a rare ascent of Eldorado Canyon's hardest trad climb, Iron Monkey (5.14 R), Deadpoint Magazine reports.

First freed by Matt Segal in 2006, Iron Monkey consists of dynamic, bouldery climbing protected by sketchy gear placements. Many consider the route to be the second-hardest trad pitch in North America, after Squamish's Cobra Crack.

Kim took a number of falls on the route before sending. Due to time constraints, Kim climbed Iron Monkey "pinkpoint"-style, leaving his gear after each attempt instead of removing it and placing it on lead.

The route is Kim's second 5.14 and hardest trad ascent so far, according to

--Adam Roy

Filed To: Adventure, Climbing

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