Dave Hahn has always stood out to me the consummate mountain guide.While some will certainly argue this point, I have witnessed Dave inaction a few times. Once in the Khumbu Icefall, Dave was guiding ahuge client. When I say huge, I mean 6' 3" 250+lbs - not fat justlarge, huge. The client was struggling with a big move in the Icefalland Dave was gently providing guidance in footwork. He could haveeasily taken on the impatient guide persona but Dave showed hispatience. The climber made it.
On another expedition, I was sitting in our tent at the South Colfocusing on the howling wind. Our guide was telling us to get ready togo for the summit. I clearly remember looking at my tent mates with acocked eye. Dave's voice came over the radio to our Guide, "We aregoing back to camp 2 - no summit for us tonight." Our team was tunedaround at the South Summit hours later.
Dave is a regular guide for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. andInternational Mountain Guides amongst other companies. Last year heguided for First Ascent/Eddie Bauer on Everest. His summits areimpressive: 250+ on Rainier, 26 on Vinson, 19 out of 26 climbs ofDenali. Also he loves to guide the Shackleton Crossing on South GeorgiaIsland.
He is certainly an accomplished climber but also a worthy writerproviding some of the best written dispatches from any climb. Last yearhe blogged for First Ascent and has for Great Outdoors for several years.
I asked Dave to share some thoughts on Everest and his upcoming RMIexpedition. I was lucky to catch him at home in Taos where he is aprofessional ski patroller at Taos Ski Valley since 1985.