May 2, 2004
Outside Magazine

The Trip-Finder, January 1999
Hiking the Transylvanian Alps
Outfitter Price Accommodations
Exodus Walking Holidays
011-44-181-675-5550, www.exodus
$940 camping, tourist hotels
Executive Wilderness Programmes
011-44-171-832-5620, outworld.
$1,320 rustic lodging

The Route: Trekking 15 days and 120 miles through the Fagaras, Bucegi, and Lezer massifs and the alpine meadows of the Dimbovita region. You'll stop at Count Dracula's castle, perched ominously on its rocky knoll, and scramble up 8,350-foot Moldoveanu, Romania's highest peak.

When to go: July through September

Difficulty: Moderate

Travel advisory: Romanian-guided EWP trips include homestays in local villages. With Exodus, you'll be camping in two-person tents. Both outfitters keep the load quite light; you'll carry a mere daypack holding your camera, water, and jacket.

High/low points:

  • Sharing a cup of fresh goat's mile with an isolated and therefore exceedingly friendly, Vlach goatherd.
  • Digging into a large bowl of Romania's national dish — a bland maize porridge called mamaligia with a flavor that's been likened to wallpaper paste.

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