Off the map in Baja Sur Mexico

May 5, 2004
Outside Magazine
Week of November 7-13, 1996
Exploring the Dominican Republic's parks
Kayaking and rafting near Juneau
Choosing a mountaineering school
Off the map in Baja Sur Mexico

Off the map in Baja Sur Mexico
Question: I'd like to spend Christmas vacation in Todos Santos, Baja Sur Mexico (near Cabo), but I'm having a hard time finding much travel and lodging information about it. I discovered a little on Outside Online, but I'd like more information in order to reserve a good place to stay. My travel agent hasn't even heard of it. Any suggestions?

Phil Pierce
Colorado Springs, CO
[email protected]

Adventure Adviser: Well, Phil, you tell your travel agent this: Todos Santos is a somewhat sleepy beach town that delivers when it comes to uncrowded surf breaks and stretches of empty beach--so it's probably good news she's never heard of it.

About an hour north of Cabo San Lucas on Highway 19, Todos Santos is a great mix of beachfront cafes, family-run hotels, small art galleries, lush orchards, and near-perfect crescent beaches. Well, maybe I'm getting slightly carried away with this paradise-found theme, but you get the point. A good bet for lodging is the aptly named Todos Santos Inn, an 1850s house with three guest rooms and not-too-shabby ocean views. Double rooms go for a reasonable $40 per night, including breakfast; call 011-52-114-4-9133 for details.

Eagles fans can check into the infamous Hotel California (011-52-114-5-2333), with its freshly painted, recently refurbished, $28-per-night rooms. While in town, be sure to grab a bite to eat at the Café Santa Fe, an Italian joint on the plaza that serves local produce and seafood to rave reviews.

If you're looking for something even more wallet-friendly, consider schlepping your tent along and pitching it on Playa Cerritos, about 7 miles south of town. The cactus-studded campground charges $5 per night, and the surfing here is primo, since most of the winter crowds stay south in Cabo. This is, come to think of it, your basic beach lounging. Minimal winter crowds also means that Playa San Pedrito, about 5 miles north of Cerritos, and its north swell and river-mouth reef are there at your wave-riding disposal. Retire the board at lunch and park yourself on the sand with fresh fish from the pangueros, local fishermen who launch right off the beach.

As for travel logistics, the cheapest and easiest route to the southern tip of Baja is via Los Angeles; AeroCalifornia (800-237-6225) flies to Cabo San Lucas for about $205 round trip. The 85-mile drive north from Cabo, along wild beaches and through cactus forest, is so spectacular it'll make up for having to rent a car (save yourself some cash by reserving it in advance through Avis in the U.S.). For more on Baja, check out "Mexico: Baja California" in Outside's Winter 1995-1996 Travel Guide.

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