Comments on leading abilities of expedition guides

May 5, 2004
Outside Magazine

Jon Krakauer

Comments on leading abilities of expedition guides
Question: Mr. Krakauer,

I just wanted to comment on the Turning Point broadcast this past evening which revisited last year's climb. I sense your words have told the story straight and your "admonishment" of those expert guides involved was right on the mark. I'm sure you know all too well that in dangerous undertakings, the experts need to be in charge and take on the responsibility of leading.

When factors of ego and economics enter the equation, the results can be tragic. As a former commercial airline pilot, the rules are pretty clear, the captain is the expert. He/she has the responsibility and is the final authority on all aircraft operations. Your experts on that fateful expedition clearly dropped the ball. Unfortunately, Fischer and Hall paid the highest price for shuffling priorities. Their loss is tragic to both their families and to the future climbers that will never be able to learn from their words of wisdom.

I haven't yet read your book Into Thin Air, but I am looking forward to it. I wish you well in your future endeavors.

David Fariello
[email protected]

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