Bloody Marys at noon; black-diamond bravado; snot rockets in lift linesski trips are not usually romantic. But this doesn't have to be the rule. Just insert cross-country before ski and head to Devil's Thumb Ranch, in Tabernash, Colorado, and you'll see (cabins, $315; devilsthumbranch.com). Surrounded by 12,000-foot peaks, the timber-and-stone ranch is ground zero for the state's best nordic skiingsome 60 miles of groomed trails delve into forests and wind past your cabin. (Rent one instead of the rooms in the lodge. I was impressed.) Dinner? It's organic, locally sourced, and served in a lodge with 40-foot ceilings. While the barbecue may not look as date-friendly as the maple-cured salmon, it's better; go for the rack of ribs and wipe your face before hopping in a copper soaking tub. Then ski back to your cabin, which does not come equipped with televisiona good thing.