When the Tough Get Going...

Into the Interior: How to Cut Your Own Path in the Hundran Hinterlands

Oct 1, 1998
Outside Magazine

In the verdant mountains of Honduras, pleasant weather is all but guaranteed during the cool, dry months—October through April—whereas rain will pound you, regardless of the season, along the Caribbean coast. So though the shore does have its between-downpour consolations (diving, sea kayaking, etc.), it's best to hop a plane, bus, or rental car and head straight for the hills.
Getting There: Taca Airlines (800-831-6422) runs direct flights to La Ceiba—gateway city to La Muralla National Park as well as to the sybaritic Bay Islands of Roatán, Guanaja, and Utila—from Houston ($625 round-trip) or from JFK through San Pedro Sula ($750).

Getting Around: Honduran "highways" have a habit of deteriorating as you stray from major cities, so if you're renting, snag the sturdiest-looking model on the lot—and best not to tell the attendant exactly how far you're headed. You can hire a car in San Pedro Sula for about $45 per day from Hertz (800-654-3001) or Avis (800-331-1084), which also has a La Ceiba branch. Or travel as the locals do: by bus. Fares are negligible and schedules somewhat negotiable, though you'll need to brush up on your frantic double-arm overhead wave, as formal bus stops are ignored nationwide. To get to La Mosquitia, however, you'll have to travel by air. Islena Airlines (011-504-233-9813) flies to Palacios from Trujillo (a beach town 50 miles north of El Carbón) for $35 one-way, and from La Ceiba for $43.
Outfitters: For guided trips in La Mosquitia, call legendary local guide Jorge Salaverri, who grew up on the Río Coco and explored this region on his own for two decades before founding La Ceiba-based La Moskitia Ecoaventuras (011-504-442-0104) four years ago. Ecoaventuras runs everything from three-day tuk-tuk cruises along the lagoons near Palacios to rigorous, 14-day raft trips down the most remote sections of the Río Platano; prices range from $414 to $1,729.

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