Yellowstone was our first national park, and in the eyes of manywith all those white-capped mountains, wandering wolves, and, not least, Old Faithfulis still champion. But neighbor Grand Teton comes darn close.
Trek in the tracks of wolves on custom llama-packing trips into Yellowstone and wildlife-viewing trips in both parks. Itineraries vary, but often center on the Daly Creek section of northwestern Yellowstone, with a day hike up Big Horn Peak. The shaggy camelids carry your gear (but not you), and, unless sorely provoked, they don't spit. Yellowstone Llamas, $220;yellowstonesafari.com/safaris/llamas.html
Where to Stay
The impressive, stone-and-redwood Amangani resort is set high on a cliffside about eight miles from Jackson Hole ski area, with stunning views of the Tetons. The only Aman property in the United States, it shares with its overseas brethren exorbitant rates for exorbitant luxury. After a day of hiking or climbing, soak in a deluxe tub looking out at the mountains and think of all those staying elsewhere in the valley, far, far below. Suites, $565$1,680; amanresorts.com
Where to Eat
The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort pumped $10 million into the new Couloir restaurant, at the top of the Bridger Gondola. Open since June, with a chef poached from the local Four Seasons, it has views of Corbet's Couloir and perhaps the best seafood in the Teton range. jacksonhole.com
Be sure to drop into SoBo ("South of Broadway"), reputed to be Jackson's most happening art scene, anchored by the hip Lyndsay McCandless Contemporary gallery (lmcontemporary.com) and the galleries and performance spaces at the Jackson Hole Center for the Arts (jhcenterforthearts.org).