- Five subway lines, the only way to traverse traffic-choked Caracas quickly, are covered in shampoo ads and political reminders.
- At the Los Roques airport departure lounge, even a stream of turboprops arriving from the mainland isn't enough to distract fishermen from their task of netting bait.
- The Caracas airport is a world unto itself, a sealed colony of hotels and restaurants where baggage handlers offer the best black-market exchange rate in the country.
- Windsurfers, divers, anglers, and just plain loafers enjoy sunset drinks amid beached fishing boats on Los Roques.
- Venezuelans rate themselves among the happiest people on earth. A contagious smile and an arepa, or corncake, griddle-fried and stuffed any number of ways, is enough to spread the cheer.
- Caracas empties out at night. The murder rate is at least 26 times that of New York City.
- After 26 years as a painter working on the same street-corner in the Sabana Grande neighborhood, this former boxer has tough hands and plenty of memories.
- Young men in an Caracas auto repair shop are focused on the "Bolivarian Revolution" of Hugo Chavezand the ever-watchful Che Guevara.
- In western Venezuela, opposition to Chavez runs deep amid Biblical fears of hunger, plauges, kidnapping, death, lies, and trickery.
- Venezuela is where the Andes meet the Caribbean amid fog and tropical foliage. Jeeps serve as public buses on the steep roads.
- Slums belt much of Caracas, but Mt. Avila's designation as a parkand the sheerness of its slopesmean untouched forest lies next to urban density.
- Even the skyscrapers built during the oil boom years of the 1960s and '70s shrink against the foreground of Mt. Avila in downtown Caracas.
- Start over
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