Access & Resources
The rifugio is open from mid-June to mid-September. A bunk costs $19 per night; dinner costs $12 additional. 011-39-0437-721-644
Forget sipping overpriced cappuccinos in Venice's Piazza San Marco. The real dolce vita is watching the sun set on the longest rock face in the Dolomites from the balcony of Rifugio Tissi, about a four-hour hike from the village of Alleghe. As day turns to dusk, 10,712-foot Monte Civettaknown as "the climbers' university"glows a rosy hue. With its cut-above-the-usual-hut amenities, Rifugio Tissi is the perfect base camp for both rock climbers and hikers.
ROOM & BOARD: The above-treeline chalet, built in 1963, sleeps 64, with bunks for four to eight guests per room. Head to the bar in the main dining room for a frosty pint of Löwenbräu or a German chocolate bar. Dinnerclassic Italian fare like pasta al ragu and polenta with wild mushroom sauceis served on wooden tables in front of a picture window facing Civetta.
OUT THE BACK DOOR: Moderate three- to six-hour hikes, falling and rising 2,000 feet through lunar landscapes and alpine meadows, lead to the villages of Listolade and Agordo, and to other huts. If hiking seems too sedate, climbing in the backyard of renowned alpinist Reinhold Messner won't. Scale Civetta's northwest faceMessner made the first ascent in 1967or explore routes on nearby 7,667-foot Torre Venezia and 8,064-foot Torre Trieste.