The Long Paddle

Johnson, Vermont

Canoeing through Vermont affords you Long Trail views without the backpack sweat. Plus you can pack a cooler. Rent a boat at Burlington's Canoe Imports and drive 45 minutes north to the put-in at Ithiel Falls, on the Lamoille River. Then slow-boat it for eight miles, ogling Mount Mansfield, chatting with the artists on the shore, and stopping for a visit with the dreadlocks-and-NASCAR crowd at the riverside Long Trail Tavern. Crash in Jeffersonville at the Smugglers Notch Inn, within walking distance of the river. Day two involves eight more miles of paddling to the take-out at Fairfax Dam. (Hint: You can take two cars for your shuttle, but hitchhiking is encouraged here.)

EXPENSE REPORT Canoe rental ( $90. Case of Pabst Blue Ribbon in cans: $20. One night at Smuggler's Notch Inn ( $90. Risotto and wine for two at Stella Notte, in Jeffersonville (802-644-8884): $60. Breakfast at 158 Main, in Jeffersonville ( $20. Local Rosie's beef jerky, for the water: $20. Total: $300

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