Weather Delays Summit to May 21

May 20, 2011
Outside Magazine

Arnette and Everest

Well, we have slipped our summit day by one day to May 21st. We receive our weather report around 8:00 PM daily and once again after most of us had gone to bed, the report showed very high winds localized at Camp 3 for the time we would be there.

So in consultation with IMG headquarters, the decision was made to stay at C2 another day. Meanwhile it appears over 100 climbers made their way to C3 today based on different forecasts or choosing to accept the risks.

As usual, there are many teams still here at C2 including Adventure Consultants and Himex; both went up today. However, Dave Hahn, well known US Everest Guide with 13 summits is now targeting the same date as us. I met Dave's client, 16 year-old Sarah, the other day. She was so excited but has since stopped her climb. Can you imagine the memories she now has?

I was fine with our decision especially after a difficult night at C3 only last week with harsh winds. Also, I have personally seen many climbers this year with frostbite or blindness from high winds. 2011 had been a very difficult weather year.

In spite of this delay, this summit schedule is actually ideal for me with one night at C1, then 2 nights at C2 before climbing to C3 and the South Col. It gives me time to rest and try to keep the calories going. In fact, I just finished 660 calories of cashews and have continued my midnight chocolate habit!

So, again, we go to bed thinking of leaving for C3 at 3:00AM with the goal of leaving the South Col on Friday night, May 20 and summiting the morning of May 21st, Nepal time.

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

Arnette is a speaker, mountaineer and Alzheimer's Advocate. He is climbing the 7 Summits throughout 2011. He has summited Vinson and Aconcagua already and leaves for Everest in late March. All to raise $1 million for Alzheimer's research. You can read more on his site.

Photo Courtesy

Filed To: Adventure, Climbing

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