New Speed Record Set on Eiger

Apr 21, 2011
Outside Magazine


Swiss climber Dani Arnold has broken the speed record for the Eiger, blazing up the mountain's north face in 2 hours and 28 minutes.

Arnold, 27, beat the previous record by nearly 20 minutes. According to Mammut's blog, he soloed the classic Heckmair route, passing some 20 climbing parties along the way.

The previous record of 2 hours and 47 minutes was set in 2008 by Ueli Steck, who made the news earlier this week by speed-soloing Shishapangma (8,027 m). Steck's record-setting climb was featured during last year's Reel Rock Film Tour in the movie The Swiss Machine. Unlike Steck, Arnold didn't free climb the entire route, instead using fixed ropes on the hazardous Hinterstoisser traverse.

Arnold came to prominence last year, when he and Thomas Senf of Germany made the first winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia. He also set the record for fastest team ascent of the Eiger in 2008, climbing it with Stephan Ruoss in 6 hours, 10 minutes.

--Adam Roy

Filed To: Adventure, Climbing

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