DiGiulian Is First Woman to Free Climb Magic Mushroom

She and Traversi send route on the North Face of the Eiger

Aug 31, 2015
Outside
Outside Magazine
DiGiulian Is First Woman to Free Climb Magic Mushroom

“I've never tried harder on anything in my life. I am wrecked and can't believe it's real,” DiGiulian wrote on her Facebook page.    Mary Mecklenburg / Courtesy of Adidas

On Saturday, Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi became the first Americans to free climb Magic Mushroom on the North Face of Switzerland's the Eiger, according to an Adidas press release. DiGiulian was the first woman to complete the route. It took Traversi and DiGiulian three days to complete the 20-pitch climb, graded 5.13a.

 

 

The Eiger’s North Face is the largest north face in the Alps at nearly 6,000 feet tall and is known as the “Murder Wall,” named for its deadliness to mountaineers, according to the New York Times. The team originally intended to climb the route La Paciencia (5.13b and 23 pitches), but bad weather forced them to change plans, Climbing magazine reported. The Magic Mushroom route was first climbed by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz in 2007.

DiGiulian is a three-time U.S. National Champion and is the first North American women to climb at a route graded 5.14d, the hardest sport climb known to have been achieved by a woman, according to her website. Traversi is a two-time U.S. sport climbing national champion and has completed several first ascents.

“I've never tried harder on anything in my life," DiGiulian wrote on her Facebook page. "I am wrecked and can't believe it's real."

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