North & Central America

My Delta, Myself

DRIVING IN THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA IN THE early-morning fog, pale yellow light, skies of clear blue above a thousand shades of green. Or, driving in the late afternoon, the sun spreading red beams...

A Little Good, Clean Lust in Utah

AS SURELY AS THEY LEAD TO GAS-STATION burritos and blue slush drinks, long solo drives take us to brief flirtations with strangers. On U.S. 89 in southern Utah I had a golden nonce with a Mormon...

Wave Good-bye to the Fiberglass Moose

IF YOU WANT TO DRIVE MAINE'S FAMOUS coastal highway, U.S. 1, and avoid the typical tourist traps and temptations, you must persevere. It can be done, but you have to be strong. Skip the fried...

Montana, The Dry Run

BACK BEFORE IT WAS INCORRECT TO MIX pickups with vodka, a lawyer I called Loophole built his practice running interference for roadhouses all across western Montana. From time to time I'd go...

Birch Bark in Excelsis!

NOTHING SAYS THE END OF THE TWENTIETH century like the New York State Thruway. It's a dreary gray conveyor belt of whizzing cars and veering semis, running more or less parallel to the Hudson...

Chuck Darwin, Eat Your Heart Out

I remember my wife's expression as we sat in front of several hummingbird feeders in downtown Portal, at the mouth of Cave Creek Canyon. Two blue-throated hummers, fighting for dominance, aimed...

Chuck Darwin, Eat Your Heart Out

David Hardy stops and says calmly, "There he is." I look at a spot I've already looked at twice, and there, indeed, he is—a very large black-tailed rattlesnake, coiled in perfect camouflage...

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