Adventure Adviser

Friday, December 09, 2011 12

Q: Where's the best place to learn to ice climb?

Where in the U.S. should I go to learn to ice climb this winter? Is Ouray really worth the trip?

By: Question from: The Editors, Santa Fe, New Mexico
Climbing a frozen waterfall

Climbing a frozen waterfall Photo By: AKEG/FLICKR

A:

The answer really depends on where you live. You can find fantastic schools, and prime glazed rock slabs, scattered across the Northeast, Midwest, West, and even Southeast. But if I could instantly transport you to one place to learn, then yes, I'd send you to the San Juan mountains around Ouray in southwestern Colorado. The convergence of consistently frigid air, trickling water, and relatively easy access are the closest to ice climbing perfection within a half-day’s plane travel in the US. The old mining town of Ouray even sprays down the cliffs along a mile-long stretch of the Uncompahgre Gorge every winter to create an ice climbing park that draws 12,000 people annually. Every January, the park hosts the high holiday of North American ice climbing: the Ouray Ice Festival. Above Ouray Ice & Tower Rock Guides provides a daylong course in basic ice climbing; Rates start at $119/day.

If you’re on the East Coast, the White Mountains of New Hampshire are an eminently worthy alternative. The rain, occasional thaws, and rapid temperature changes of the New England mountains may make skiers curse the weather gods, but they also create amazing frozen waterfalls. The White Mountain National Forest around North Conway has been the hub of Northeastern ice climbing for nearly a century, and Eastern Mountain Sports Climbing School holds a near monopoly on the region’s top instructors. Clinics start at $60 per person.

Author's Bio

Greg Melville

Greg Melville is a travel writer and the author of the book Greasy Rider and Outside's Adventure Adviser column. Follow him on Twitter @gregmelville.

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Comments

12
Adam Fox

Fox Mountain Guides and Climbing School offers ice climbing in the Southeast when the ice is in but also ice and mountaineering programs in New Hampshire each February. www.foxmountainguides.com

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Adam Fox

Fox Mountain Guides and Climbing School offers ice climbing in the Southeast when the ice is in but also ice and mountaineering programs in New Hampshire each February. www.foxmountainguides.com

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ryan cook

San Juan Mountain Guides are the best ice climbing guides in Ouray. www.ourayclimbing.com 9703254925 The service, Above Ouray & Tower Rock Guides you mention in this article are not even allowed to operate in the Ouray Ice Park. Just call the local mountain sports store or any of the hotels and ask them who they recommend if you are unsure. There is no better place to learn how to ice climb than the Ouray Ice Park.

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Jennifer

I highly recommend the San Juan Mountain Guides. They know the area because they live in Ouray. They are professional and affordable too. Plus, they are just good people and they treat each guest with respect while having fun. I have been in a few of their classes and loved it!

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Real Ouray Local

Make sure your guide is actually allowed in the Ouray Ice Park, or else you might end up climbing all day on a 30 foot section on the side of the highway. Many guides advertise "Ouray", but that does not necessarily mean the world class Ice Park, even if they have ouray ice park on their website. For a complete list of approved guides go to: http://ourayicepark.com/travel-planner/guiding-services/

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AKStar

I'd highly recommend glacier climbing in Alaska instead. Zero chance of the ice falling off the rock!

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Matt

Ascending Path climbing guides are based out of Anchorage Alaska and offer fantastic day climbs for beginners and advanced climbers. www.ascendingpath.com

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Andy

My wife and I spent our engagement weekend in Ouray, and climbed with San Juan Mountain Guides, as most of the other commenters are suggesting here. I'm not sure why the article advises using the other guys, but I can say that SJMG provided a fun, safe, and thrilling experience that we'll never forget! GO TO OURAY!

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