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Stephanie Gilmore on Oahu's North Shore     Photo: Morgan Maassen

Boring Days on Oahu's North Shore

With 5-time world champion Stephanie Gilmore

I spend most of my winters in Hawaii because Oahu's North Shore is the epicenter of the modern surf world. Some days herald 15-foot, timeless Pipeline, but other days usher in nothing but stormy, windy waves. There's not a thing to do but watch TV or read a book.

On one of those boring days, five-time world champion Stephanie Gilmore and I decided to go out and shoot some underwater bodysurfing photos. Lo and behold, the beach in front of our house had crystal-clear water and enough surf to make for a fun time.

Gilmore let her body sway and move with the currents. This photo is rather unorthodox in that sense, as she is not riding a wave; she is letting her body conform to the aftershock.

Photos like this from days that would have otherwise been written off always remind me that there is a moment to be experienced and captured at any given time. You just have to find it. 

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