The Snow Report
When Ernest Hemingway stayed in Schruns, Austria, in 1925, sleds, not skis, were all the rage—and not just with kids. Back then, locals sped down Austria's alpine passes on toboggans. Today, the tradition is kept alive by the Montafon Valley's cable cars, such as Schruns's Montafoner Hochjochbahnen (hochjoch.com). For $15 a day, you can rent a sled with slippery metal runners for use on sectioned-off runs. Because sometimes aimlessly sliding on snow is all you need.
ACCOMMODATIONS: At Hotel Taube, soak up the vibe that supposedly inspired Hemingway to write "An Alpine Idyll." Doubles, $110; 011-43-5556-7238-4