Alagna delivers unadorned big-mountain freeriding. Situated in northern Italy on the southern side of the Monte Rosa Massif, the rustic farming village—population 400—serves up a mountain with serious exposure, one gondola, and access to two additional ski areas, Champoluc and Grissoney. The three areas together offer 115 miles of runs, but you don’t come to Alagna to ski inbounds. Ski the Malfatta and Vittoria couloirs, two marquee backcountry lines, and the six-mile-long La Balma, which winds down a glacier and through ancient farming hamlets. If it’s nightlife you’re after, there’s really only one stop, the Caffé delle Guide, a low-key bar where Alagna’s guides congregate at day’s end. Book a room at the Indren Hus, which is close to the lifts and one of the few places to stay in Alagna proper (from $46 to $86, December through April). There’s not much to do in Alagna but ski, so arrive in shape and bring your appetite—the Margherita pizza at Café delle Guide can’t be beat.