More than a quarter of the craggy seafront and piney hills of 35,000-acre Acadia was bequeathed to the publicbetween 1935 and 1960 by John D. Rockefeller Jr., a man who knew how to liveand what to do with his property afterwards.
Ride like a robber baron on 45 miles of hard-packed dirt carriage roads cut more than a generation ago on Mount Desert Island; some of the steepest, most scenic, and least visited trails are to the west of Eagle Lake. The 11-mile Around Mountain Loop, with views out to sea, is a local favorite. Find rental mountain bikes ($21 per day), maps, and sound advice at Bar Harbor Bicycle Shop. barharborbike.com
Where to Stay
The shingle-style Peregrine Lodge, recently built in Northeast Harbor and minutes from Acadia, eschews the chintz and communal pancakes (breakfast is at a restaurant down the street). Large groups can rent the entire six-room inn, which includes a full kitchen and balconies opening to the harbor air. Doubles and suites, $215$325; maisonsuisse.com/peregrine-lodge.html
Where to Eat
Since it opened in 1999, Havana, with an eclectic wine list and entrées like fresh tuna doused in Thai-dragon-oil-and-guajillo sauce, has been Bar Harbor's hottest restaurant. havanamaine.com
As rollickingand déclasséas it sounds, Carmen Verandah, on Main Street in Bar Harbor, romps with live music after 9:30 p.m. on weekends and has billiards, dancing, and the Atlantic Brewing Company's latest on tap every day. carmenverandah.com