MAUI'S BEST from Martin Kirk
BEST MALASADA: Find this sugary Portuguese pastry at Komodo Store & Bakery in Makawao, 808-572-7261. Best Live Ukulele Music: Hula Grill in Kaanapali, 808-667-6636.
BEST PLACE TO SCORE AN AUTHENTIC ALOHA SHIRT: Sig Zane Designs in Wailuku, 808-249-8997.
BEST BODYSURFING: Big Beach in Makena.
AT FIRST GLANCE, Maui, the second-most-visited island after Oahu, seems like a pie sliced in three: resort-complex Maui, golf-course Maui, and condo Maui. But there are plenty more pieces to go aroundÂ—the grassy ranch land and volcanic heights of upcountry Haleakala, the rainforest splendor of the Hana side, and the north shore's international windsurfing scene. Bon appe'tit!
WHERE TO STAY: The Hotel Hana-Maui on rocky Hana Bay has 66 luxury rooms and suites, many in plantation-style bungalows. Doubles, $275; 800-321-4262, www.hotelhanamaui.com. For the old upcountry Hawaii feel, stay at the Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono, close to rainforest hiking and the famed Iao Needle rock spire. Doubles start at $120; 800-305-4899, www.mauiinn.com.
WHERE TO INDULGE: In the upcountry hub of Makawao, head to Casanova Italian Restaurant and Bar for calzones and live blues; 808-572-0220. Brag about the big front loop you busted at Ho'okipa over fresh sushi at Jacque's North Shore Restaurant and Bar in Paia, a hangout for the wind-chaser crowd; 808-579-8844. Or try the Old Lahaina Luau, with "broke da mouth" (delicious) Hawaiian fare and a traditional hula performance. $75 per seat; 800-248-5828, www.oldlahainaluau.com.
KITEBOARD: The Kiteboarding School of Maui's beginner lesson costs $240; 808-873-0015, www.kiteboardingschool maui.com.
SEA KAYAK: Paddle into an isolated marine reserve at lava-lined La Perouse Bay, a playground of green sea turtles and whales, with South Pacific Kayaks & Outfitters. $89; 800-776-2326, www.southpacifickayaks.com.
SCUBA DIVE: Jump from a catamaran into a sheltered reef preserve off the islet of Molokini with Trilogy Excursions. From $150; 888-225-6284, www.sailtrilogy.com.
WINDSURF: Harness the mellow morning winds off Kanaha Beach with Maui Sports Unlimited. From $50 per hour; 808-575-2266, www.mauisportsunlimited.com.
SURF: Take a lesson "wherever the waves are going off," with former pro Buzzy Kerbox. $65; 808-573-5728, www.buzzykerboxsurf.com.
HIKE: Follow the Sliding Sands trail into Haleakala Crater, then climb back up to the rim on the connecting Halemauu Switchback trail (11 miles total). 808-572-4400, www.nps.gov/hale. On the Hana side, hike Wai'anapanapa State Park's three-mile Piilani Trail and follow coastal lava flows past the stone remains of a heiau (temple). 808-587-0062, www.hawaiitrails.org.
MOUNTAIN BIKE: Rent a ride from Island Biker in Kahului and pedal the Mamane Trail, a five-mile singletrack loop through Polipoli State Park on the western slope of the Haleakala volcano. $29 per day; 808-877-7744, www.islandbikermaui.com.