United States

And a Cast of Thousands

Caribou Each March or April, 129,000 caribou leave their wintering grounds on the Porcupine River in the Canadian Yukon, point their noses northwest, and don't stop until, ten days, 350...

Captain Cook Never Sailed Here

The helicopter chatters up from a razorback ridge, leaving us behind high in the remote West Maui Mountains. Rain spatters the bushes and low-standing trees. The air is hot, close, smelling of...

Captain Cook Never Sailed Here

Our boots begin to smolder as we walk across the beach. All around, pinpricks of light bob in the darkness as other hikers hop gingerly from foot to foot. Then, with a noisy hiss, crackle, and...

Captain Cook Never Sailed Here

Niihau, the most remote of Hawaii's principal islands, sometimes seems as much marketing concept as getaway, its "forbiddenness" making it both difficult to visit and, simultaneously, desirable....

Captain Cook Never Sailed Here

Don't be afraid of Oahu. Yes, it's the busiest island in the archipelago. Yes, you'll pay $8 for a drink with a souvenir umbrella swizzle stick. But even on Oahu, you can find nature. You can...

Captain Cook Never Sailed Here

Clouds of red dust puff up from beneath our horses' hoofs as we head higher into the upcountry of Maui. We're miles from the beach here. This is the badlands. Angry-looking gashes of dried,...

Captain Cook Never Sailed Here

No one should leave the islands without a taste of that old Hawaiian fantasy. The Robinson Crusoe moment. The beach of one's own. The only hitch: You'll have to swim for it. Kauai's Na...

Bone Fishing

Once, centuries ago, Hawaii was a land of superstition, kapus (taboos), animist spirits, and gloriously occult vengeance. When Captain James Cook made the mistake in 1779 of landing on...

The State Parks: Where Alaskans Do Alaska

In any state, there are attractions that everyone's heard of, that every guidebook touts, that every visitor has to see. Then there are the places the locals haunt, where the crowds are sparse...

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