North & Central America

In the Heart of the Heart of the West

I grew up in southern Arizona, homeland of the Apache leader Geronimo, who evaded 5,000 U.S. Army troops there in 1886. But when I began planning a hiking and mountain-biking foray into north...

Ursus Major

"Bear!" yells Tommy Moe. The downhill skier who won Olympic gold in 1994 in Lillehammer sounds the alarm from his safety kayak as he leads our paddle raft down a particularly narrow stretch of...

Wide Open Country

BEST PLACE TO CLIMB: The Spot Upwards of 50 sport and traditional one-pitch climbs (ranging from 5.6 to 5.12) pepper the Tongue River Canyon in Bighorn...

Exploring - or Through-Paddling - the Riverine AT

ONE WARM MORNING EARLY LAST JUNE, we carried our canoes at the shore of Brighton Pond, deep in Vermont's boreal Northeast Kingdom, and carried them over the narrow divide separating...

Being Beluga

Churchill during bear season can seem as crowded as New Orleans during Mardi Gras (just don't sleep in a doorway). The rest of the year the vibe is much calmer, but it's still essential to book...

Being Beluga

CHURCHILL, MANITOBA, ATINRY PORT TOWN perched on the western edge of the Hudson Bay some 600 miles north of Winnipeg, bills itself the "Polar Bear Capital of the World." And rightfully so. Each...

Being Beluga

I'm here for a week to explore Churchill without its famous blanket of white. I get a good start the morning after I arrive, when I hitch a helicopter ride to Wapusk National Park, 35 miles...

Being Beluga

Now's a good time, whispers my guide, Barbara Draper, a Winnipeg native who's lived and worked in Churchill for the last decade. She smiles—perhaps a little too enthusiastically—as I...

Being Beluga

Ten minutes east of town, my companion and guide Paul Ratson, a tundraman from central casting, looking swarthy in a rust-colored flannel shirt, pulls his weathered van off the road and, as a...

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