South America

fresh tracks

Rent-a-Pro "I love being shown around by the local pro when I go someplace new," says freeskiing legend Scot Schmidt. That's one reason he cofounded GowithaPro, a new travel company...

Righteous Journeys

ALASKA The U.S. Forest Service Passport in Time Program 800-281-9176 www.passportintime.com Dates: May 20...

Pourover

THE LITTLE PERUVIAN MARE stepped gingerly in the bedded tracks of burros, got halfway across the steep sand slide, and stopped. All around us, rock walls the color of a raw wound soared in...

Best Islands for Communing with Nature

Dominica Peaks shooting 4,000 feet from the surf, rare Sisserou parrots, 100-foot waterfalls, an undersea hot springs called Champagne—welcome to the Caribbean's most primeval...

Best Islands for Boardsailing

El Yaque, Margarita Island, Venezuela Fifteen- to 30-knot sideshore winds blow over water so shallow here that you can bail 400 yards out and still walk back to land. High-quality...

Upriver and Out of Sight

Q: I am traveling to Manaus, Brazil this fall. I know it is the low season, but I am hoping to do an adventure trip for a few days a bit off the beaten path. Do you have any tips...

Into the Belly of Bolivia

Mario knelt by the left front tire, sprinkled it with alcohol from a small bottle, and said a prayer to Pachamama, the earth mother. Those of us who had stepped out of the truck to watch were in...

The Ultimate Boneyards

Shaped like fork-tailed torpedoes and damn near as speedy, bonefish (Albula vulpes) are some of the most challenging fish you can catch on a fly. Hook one and it'll rocket away at up to 30 miles...

Vaya con Dios

Pico da Neblina WHERE THE HELL? Northwestern Brazil, 506 miles northwest of Manaus. WHAT IN THE WORLD? Few foreigners have ever attempted to scale 9,888-foot Pico da...

See You in Six Months: In the Mountains of My Youth

FOR QUALITY TROUBLE, give me South America. Whole countries get lost down there. (Ask ten people where Suriname is; only one will even know the continent.) Yes, you can get yourself in a good...

Butch Cassidy Meets the Penguin

It was no great feat of investigative journalism to find the house of Boots. The ramshackle log edifice was partially hidden behind a dozen mature trees, about a hundred yards off a gravel road...

Down Time

THE COLLECTIVO SPED down the valley, flicking past cornfields and eucalyptus groves and little adobe villages where tomato-cheeked women in bowler hats and Day-Glo skirts squatted in the dust,...

Have Gun, Will Travel

South Africa's West Coast Unless you're willing to risk your five right fingers trespassing on De Beers diamond lands in Namibia, the stretch of frigid sea along South Africa's west...

And a Cast of Thousands

Wildebeasts and Zebras When it comes to large, charismatic animals on the go, nothing compares to East Africa's Serengeti. Each year more than a million wildebeests and up to 300,000...

Animals A-Go-Go

Marine iguanas are big, spiny, sluggish, awful-looking lizards that sneeze a lot. Even critterphile Charles Darwin pronounced them "hideous." What more could a kid ask for? The only seagoing...

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