The Outside Blog


An Italian Climber Battles English Grit


In mid-March, Italian climber Michele Caminati took a ground fall from near the top of The New Statesman, a classic, sketchy gritstone route in Ilkley Quarry, Yorkshire, England. He fell about 25 feet, ripping out the micronuts and cams protecting the climb and slamming into a bouldering pad at the bottom. Luckily for Caminati, he walked away with only bruises and a stiff neck, and managed to get over the scare and send the route a week later.

As Caminati's misadventure illustrates, Britain's gritstone trad climbing scene is everything modern sport climbing is not: scary, heady, and genuinely dangerous. That's part of why The New Statesman (E8, or about 5.13 R) has only gotten about six ascents since English climber John Dunne established it in 1987. And while advances in crash pad technology have since made the climb somewhat safer (a memorable scene from 1998's Hard Grit shows Neil Bentley blowing up Therm-a-Rest mats to smooth out the landing), getting to the top still takes commitment.

Watch the video above to see Caminati take the grounder and come back to send.

—Adam Roy

to Outside
Save Over

Magazine Cover

iPad Outside+ App Access Now Included!






Previous Posts




Blog Roll

Current Issue Outside Magazine

Subscribe and get a great deal! Two free Buyer's Guides plus a free GoLite Sport Bottle. Monthly delivery of Outside—your ultimate resource for today's active lifestyle. All that and big savings!

Free Newsletters

Dispatch This week's featured articles, reviews, and videos. Sent twice weekly.
News From the Field The most important breaking news from around the Web. Sent daily.
Gear of the Day The latest products, reviews, and editors' picks. Coming soon.
Outside Partners Outside-approved deals and special offers from select partners. Sent occasionally.

Ask a Question

Our gear experts await your outdoor-gear-related questions. Go ahead, ask them anything.

* We might edit your question for length or clarity. If it's not about gear, we'll just ignore it.