K2 First - Lino Lacedelli dead at 83
We lost another great climber in November, Lino Lacedelli at age 83.
He and Achille Compagnoni were the first two men to summit K2 on July 31,1954 - a year after the first Everest summit. He died in his hometown of Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy.
Their summit brought great pride to Italy. However, as is usually the case in significant mountaineering events, this first was also immersed in controversy.
Lacedelli and Compagnoni made their way up K2 establishing a high camp at 8,100 meters. Two additional climbers providing support by carrying additional oxygen bottles were supposed to rendezvous with them at the high camp.
However, when the support climbers, Walter Bonatti and Pakistani porter Amir Mahdi arrived, they could not find the camp. Mahdi and Bonatti were forced to bivy and suffered severe frostbite.
Believing that the lead team was trying to keep the summit for themselves, Bonatti accused them of moving the camp. Compagnoni then countered that Bonatti had siphoned off some of the oxygen to sabotage their summit.
Both parties sued back in Italy, with Compagnoni's accusation thrown out of court and Bonatti winning a libel suit. The arguments continued for decades in books, interviews and in the court of public opinion.
Finally in 2004, Lacedelli wanting to speak publicly after decades of silence wrote that he and Compagnoni had in fact moved the rendezvous place so as to use the extra oxygen for their own summit. The book, K2: The Price of Conquest, was translated into English in 2006.
In 2007, the Club Alpino Italiano, agreed with Bonatti's version who made many impressive climbing feats throughout his life. Lacedelli ran a climbing store, K2 Sports, for decades in Italy. Compagnoni died this past May at age 94.
--Alan Arnette
Comments
I was inspired to go to K2 by the book of Walter Bonatti, published around 2004. I am not a climber, just a trekker, so I got up to the K2 base camp. It was one of my best trekking adventure. The area and the history associated with the many climbing attempts is very inspiring. I am happy to hear that Lacedelli finally admitted that they had moved their camp. I have been always on the Bonatti side of the story. The Italian alpine club, had finally to agree with Bonatti's view of the events
Flag ThisAngela, I agree. Also, I was awe struck with the beauty of the Baltro when I was there in 2006. I took the picture of K2 from Concordia shown on this post. Thanks for the comment.
Flag ThisVery interesting. I found most of my K2 info at http://whatisk2.blogspot.com
Flag ThisHe was a man with much perseverance and I envy that. Rest in peace.
Flag ThisWhat a shame. :( I am fascinated by people who attempt such daring things!
Flag ThisYea.....ur articles are well and i found this another sites. I agree with u. Thanks.
Flag This