Lonnie Dupre has attempted to climb Denali in January each of the last two years. Both times he hit bad weather. So he huddled inside snow caves and waited for the conditions to clear. They didn't, even after seven days of sitting. Turning around after so much waiting was the toughest part of his two previous expeditions—he reached 17,200 feet in 2011 and 14,200 feet in 2012—but an easy decision. "If you make the wrong choice in those conditions, that's it," said Dupre in an email.
We checked in with Dupre to find out what he has planned for his third winter attempt at Denali.
One of the biggest films that screened at the 2012 Banff Mountain Film Competition was Messner, a 108-minute German documentary with English subtitles directed by Andreas Nickel. In late September, before the European premiere of the film, journalist Johanna Stoeckl interviewed the famous German mountaineer about everything from his childhood to the evolution of alpinism. Two of Messner's most interesting answers came in the middle of the interview, when Stoeckler asked about his favorite athletes and the state of alpinism today.
If Japanese climber Tomoko Ogawa looks like she's been practicing the problem in the video above for years, it's because, well, she has. Ogawa, 34, starting working Catharsis, a V14 in Shiobara, Japan, three years ago. At the time, no woman had ever climbed a boulder problem harder than V12. Angie Payne hadn't touched The Automator, and Ashima Shiraishi, who made news this year when she climbed V13 at 10 years old, was still unknown.
Romero near his home in Big Bear Lake, California. Photo: Jennifer Briggs
What do you do when you’re 15 years old and you’ve already climbed the highest mountain on every continent? If you’re Jordan Romero, you launch a nationwide campaign to scale the tallest summits in all 50 states—and inspire other kids to chase their own dreams.
Last December, Jordan became the youngest person to climb the Seven Summits when he topped out on Antarctica’s Mount Vinson Massif. It was the end of a six-year quest that had started when he summited Mount Kilimanjaro—at 10. But for Jordan’s Find Your Own Everest (FYE) tour, which launched this summer in New England, it’s only the beginning.
When climbers Jarem Frye, Craig DeMartino, and Pete Davis met at the 2006 Extremity Games, an X Games-style event for amputee athletes, one of them proposed tackling a big wall in Yosemite. "The three of us are all climbers first, and then second, we're disabled," says Arc'Teryx athlete Craig DeMartino. "And so, if climber is what you are, one of the best things you can do as a climber is to climb El Cap."