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Surfing

Adventure Video of the Week: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing With Greg Long

After surfer Greg Long caught the biggest wave of his life, an undocumented 70-to 80-foot monster that formed at Cortes Bank in 2008, he shook, vomited, and cried. "There wasn't even a sense of stoke, or that excitement afterwards," says Long. "That, I was outright terrified."

Sine Qua Non, a 24-minute documentary profile of Long by The Inertia, offers an intimate look into the Californian's quest to ride the world’s biggest waves. It works as much for what it contains—honest, plain discussions with Long's family and friends about the biggest and scariest moments of his life—as for what it lacks—moody music, surfing clichés, hyper-cut clips of big waves, and platitudes from colleagues. Long is no ordinary surfer, and this is no ordinary surf flick.

Watch it.

The film is the first in a series of profiles by The Inertia.  

—Joe Spring
@joespring
facebook.com/joespring.1



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