Friday, December 05, 2008 5

No Bachcheh Left Behind

Greg Mortenson's school-building program in Central Asia dates back to 1993, when the banged-up K2 survivor made a pledge to the Himalayan villagers who took him in. Fifteen years and Three Cups of Tea later, it's both a powerful example of a great idea and a chaotic, ongoing adventure. KEVIN FEDARKO hits the rough road with Mortenson in Afghanistan, where they roll with warlords and deliver teacher pay the old-fashioned way: with a $100,000 bag of cash.

By:
Greg Mortenson

Mortenson near his home in Bozeman, Montana, July 2008    Photographer: Photograph by Dan Winters

Map Greg Mortenson

Watch a Video

THE HABIB BANK OCCUPIES a four-story building in Kabul's Shahr-i-Nau district, a neighborhood that features an outdoor photo exhibit of Afghan land-mine amputees, an Internet café that was blown up by a suicide bomber in 2005, and a man holding a trained monkey on a chain. At five minutes to nine on a Saturday morning, the monkey's eyes dart toward the bank's entrance as two men in combat vests come charging out through the doors.

The figure in front, a hulking six-foot-four American, is wearing a pair of size-15 Merrell clogs and a shalwar kameez, the pajama-style robes favored by men throughout Afghanistan. Behind him is a former Pakistani commando whose right hand is frozen into a kind of claw. In it, he clutches a plastic bag just given to him by the lady who brings fresh-baked bread to the bank's employees every morning. The bag now holds 23 bricks of cash totaling $100,000. The cash is dusted with flour, and both men are running as if the devil himself were after them.

They jump into a cab that plunges into the morning traffic, speeding past tea shops and Indian video stores and into the Wazir Akbar Khan roundabout, where the driver unwisely opts for a shortcut that involves entering the thing in the wrong direction.

Oops.

A policeman blocks the vehicle and slams his fists on the hood. Then he reaches through the open window and starts shaking the driver by his lapels while unleashing a blast of enraged Dari, the language spoken throughout half of Afghanistan. From the backseat, the retired commando calmly vise-grips the driver's neck and barks a one-word command: "Burro!"

Rough translation: "Floor it."

More at Outside

Comments

5
Leslie Johnson

Most amazing book I have ever read! So inspiring and a must read for all. Despite some less than 5 star ratings some readers have given, the determination of Greg to do the right things despite so many obstacles, is heroic. In this mess of a world, with its war and greed, one can see that there is still hope. It would certainly help some Americans, bombarded with anti-Islamic rhetoric and fear mongering, to read first hand accounts of relationship building and cultural understanding.

Flag This
Angela Allen

You are very correct Leslie.

Flag This
Ken Johnston

Just finished listening to a talking book version. Had the book a long time,unfortuntely never found time to read it.WOW what a book. If President Obama really wants to change our ways in this country, we need a cabinet level Dept. of Peace. Buy one less ship, helicopter and jet and fund it with 1 billion dollars.Let Greg Mottenson head the Asia division. This will do more good for our security than any army!

Flag This
Karla

Greg is setting the example- sooo awesome! Others now, must find the intestinal fortitude to be likewise, may they be women or men. This is the way to make continuous necessary change. As chronicled on stela +/- 5,000 years, persons have created from nothing but understanding of real need into empires, that unfortunately can be corrupted by those whose vision is limited to personal gain. The educated could, could, change and the honest illiterate of any culture uplifted to a new vitality.

Flag This
Aardy

Do we really believe somebody just walks into a bank in Kabul, gets $100,000 in local currency, throws it into a bag and just hops in any old cab and goes to the airport? Seriously. That is five million Afghani... the local currency. The largest bill is 1,000 Afghani and the smallest is one. If the average bill was 100 Afghani that would be 50,000 banks notes and no mention that in 2008, much like now, Pakistani and American currencies were still favored in many remote areas. Nose-stret

Flag This

Post Comment

Outside Promotions


Current Issue Outside Magazine

Subscribe and get a great deal! 2 FREE Buyer's Guides plus a FREE GoLite Sport Bottle. Monthly delivery of Outside - your ultimate resource for today's active lifestyle. All that and BIG SAVINGS!

Free Newsletter

Get our e-mail dispatch, with Outside articles & online exclusives, delivered to your inbox each week.

Ask a Question

Our gear experts await your outdoor-gear-related questions. Go ahead, ask them anything.

* We might edit your question for length or clarity. If it's not about gear, we'll just ignore it.