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  • Photo: Sheryl Nields

    Jack Johnson

    "I'm in the place where I've had a few kids and lost my own dad last summer."

  • Photo: Sheryl Nields

    Jack Johnson

    "It's this transitional period, where part of me is reaching in one direction and trying to hold on to the people I'm losing, and part of me is reaching the other way to hold on to these new kids coming into the world."

  • Photo: Sheryl Nields

    Jack Johnson

    "I'm definitely starting to feel more like a father."

  • Photo: Sheryl Nields

    Jack Johnson

    "I would look out and see what [my dad] was doing on these big waves. I'd think, Holy cow, do I have to do that one day?"

  • Photo: Sheryl Nields

    Jack Johnson

    "My dad led me to the water and said, 'Here you go. Be careful.'"

  • Photo: Sheryl Nields

    Jack Johnson

    "You have to sit there and decide when you're ready."

  • Photo: Sheryl Nields

    Jack Johnson

    "And slowly, I would go out when it was knee-high."

  • Photo: Sheryl Nields

    Jack Johnson

    "And then you start surfing waist-high. Next thing you know, you're surfing waves as tall as you."

  • Photo: Sheryl Nields

    Jack Johnson

    "One day you break a leash a quarter-mile offshore in 20-foot surf and you're not scared at all. You realize you've gone through that rite of passage."

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