AFTER A LITTLE MORE THAN TWO HOURS OF CLIMBING, ALEX HONNOLD REACHED THANK GOD LEDGE. He was nine-tenths of the way up the northwest face of Half Dome—the nearly vertical 2,000-foot granite wall that towers above Yosemite Valley. The ledge, a 35-foot-long ramp that varies in width from five to twelve inches, forms a blessed respite from the escalating severities of the face. By hand-traversing left—facing the wall, fingers jammed in the crack at the back of the ledge, feet plastered against the rock just below—climbers circumvent the utterly blank cliff above.
Twenty-three years old that day in September 2008, with a lanky five-foot-eleven build, big brown eyes, and prominent ears, Honnold was on the verge of pulling off an unprecedented feat. He had no rope and no nuts or camming devices to jam into cracks to catch him if he fell. He had no carabiners to clip into the bolts that protected the hardest moves on the climb. He had no partner. He wore only a light shirt and shorts and carried nothing but a flask of water, a few energy bars, and a chalk bag dangling from his waist. He was practicing the most extreme and dangerous form of rock climbing. It's called free soloing, and its fundamental rule is stern and simple: If you slip, you die. Before that day, no one had free-soloed a route in North America as long or as difficult as the northwest face of Half Dome.
No one witnessed the climb, and Honnold had told only two friends of his plans. Below him stretched 1,800 feet of sheer granite; above, the last 200 feet of the wall. Downclimbing the route was out of the question.
Once he reached the ledge, however, Honnold decided not to hand-traverse but to cross on his feet, with his back to the wall. In his mind, that was the purest of styles. "It was a matter of pride," he'd later write in an unpublished essay on the climb. Delicately, he put all his weight on one foothold, pushed down on the ledge with his palms, stood up, turned around, and faced out. The wall at his back overhung by a few degrees, threatening to push him off balance.
"The first few steps were completely normal," Honnold wrote, "as if I was walking on a narrow sidewalk in the sky. But once it narrowed I found myself inching along with my body glued to the wall, shuffling my feet and maintaining perfect posture. I could have looked down and seen my pack sitting at the base of the route, but it would have pitched me headfirst off the wall."
The key to maintaining the cool it takes to free-solo a sheer face 750 feet taller than the Empire State Building is what Honnold refers to as his "mental armor." But a few minutes after traversing Thank God Ledge and turning back to face the wall, his feet planted on small sloping holds, his fingers clinging to minuscule wrinkles in the rock, Honnold ran out of armor. It was a novel and disquieting experience. He froze, reeling with existential questions: What am I doing? Why am I here?
The first wave of freak-out seized him. And as Honnold knew full well, "The minute you freak out, you're screwed."
HONNOLD DISPLAYED an affinity for risk at a young age. When he was five, his mother, Dierdre Wolownick, a French professor at American River College in Sacramento, California, took him to a climbing gym in nearby Davis. "I was talking to the supervisor, and I turned around," Wolownick remembers. "There was Alex, 30 feet up. I was scared to death he'd kill himself."
Comments
It should be noted that your description of Michael Reardon's death in this article is incorrect. Michael was swept off a ledge by a rogue wave a few minutes after he had completed a solo climb safely. I've seen the picture taken moments before the wave took him- standing on a ledge, complete and happy with the world. He was an amazing soul and I miss his presence in the world.
Flag Thiswell done on the article. That was a compelling look into the life of Honnold. Great work!
Flag ThisFor a guy who claims to be a genious, I don't know how intelligent it is to make insulting remarks about attending the events required by your sponsor to a reporter. Kudos to the author for actually showing us that these athletes who we revere are just as douche-y as everyone you meet in everyday life. We idolize them, buy their films, buy the magazines. No more Honnold-induced sales from this former fan. I hope Outside will put someone a little more appreciative on the pages next time.
Flag ThisHaving met Alex at the top of Lover's Leap, I can say that he was really nice, conversational and respectful even though we had come up a much easier route than he had just soloed. He was all smiles. Keep it up Alex, I'm routing for you.
Flag ThisOh yea, and screw this guy ^ above who called you a douche, he probably got scared soloing a ladder.
Flag ThisI remember the feeling of watching in horror as a friend "free soloed" Yosemite Slab in Jackson Falls. 3' from the end she lost her composure and it appeared that all of us were going to witness something horrific. We all had confidence in her and she proved that confidence in her to be well founded. After minutes of soul searching and mental anguish she continued and completed her epic climb. People do these things because they feel the need to do it for themselves and not for others.
Flag ThisExcellent article on Alex Honnuld. His personality traits sound ordinary. Like many, he has goals that include finding a life partner, enjoying the outdoor life, eschewing boredom while tolerating the annoyances that fame brings. His physical ability to climb combined with mental discipline blocking fear are astonishing. But in this I cannot find an answer to why he flies so close to the sun like Icarus. Once is enough....but, why is he risking death again ...and again....and again? He ha
Flag ThisWhen everyone thinks you're nuts, mentioning that some test called you a genius is a wry sort of self deprecation.
Flag ThisRoberts may give the impression this type of climbing has fairly recent origins. In fact, the first climbers in Great Britain to treat rock climbing as a sport in the 1880s, began without the use of ropes. At roughly this time Georg Winkler, a 17 year-old Munich high school student, lost his life "free soloing" in the Italian Dolomites. A few years later, Dr Paul Preuss, a phenomenal and experienced German climber fell to his death "free-soloing" a new route in the Alps.
Flag ThisI say that this guy has something in his head that very few people have. I hope to build the tallent and composure he possesses. This guy lives to climb. Being appreciative to sponsor requirements is not a requirement by the sponsors and if they had a problem with what he thinks of the politics behind the industry, they probably would drop him, instead they say he is calculated and precise. I want to meet you Alex. Come climb Ten Sleep Wyoming! Its epic, very epic. Great job on all youve done.
Flag ThisOnly 2 of the nine Great Soloist listed above actually died soloing. One on 5.9 terrain in which most do not put much pro in, and the other was taken out by a wave, while soloing on an ocean cliff. These stats don't really attest to the dangers in soloing. Far more are injured weekly while roped up.
Flag ThisI want to meet the person who doesn't change when they become one of the most recognized faces in climbing, and one of the most ridiculed.
Flag ThisI admire the mental strength and the physical aptitude that have propelled him to the top of these challenges. Alex has maintained control when both physics and mental edges are razor thin, however, i feel his attitude is not an asset for his well being or the sport, sadly reminiscent of teenage bravado rather than athleticism. As Caldwell pointed out, it is not personal aptitude that kills you, but the imponderables that wise athletes spend endless hours preparing for. Not a good role model.
Flag ThisI have done very little climbing in my life. I have alot of respect for those that do. The skill, physical fittness and mental toughness they display is impressive. Honnold has taken those to a level few will ever meet. Few of us ever get the chance to test ourself and to find our true limits. Honnold has found away to do that. His respect for life grows with each climb. Someday he will find his limit and stop soloing. It is my wish for him that he doesn't get killed getting there.
Flag This"Hey, we've all gotta die sometime. You might as well go big." Die of solo climbing is not 'big', it is called "STUPID". People will just feel sorry for you and talk about it for 3 days or less , after that, who is going to remember you?
Flag ThisWhy is everyone criticizing Alex Honnold? At least respect his views on life because not everyone is just like you are. I bet Honnold has a much greater perspective on life than many of us do, including myself. I don't necessarily agree with everything Honnold does, but I do respect him and I try to understand his perspective.
Flag ThisWhy does Outside celebrate stupidity? What Honnold does isn't heroic - it's no less suicidal than jumping off the Golden Gate bridge, the only difference being that those who jump are not waiting for Fate to inevitably give them a hand. It is no less irresponsible for Outside to publicize (and sponsors La Sportiva, Clif Bar, New England Ropes, Black Diamond, and The North Face to fund) Honnold's exploits than it is for the fashion industry to facilitate anorexia in its models.
Flag This@antisolo: I will.
Flag ThisAs Alex's cousin I find the attacks on him to be largely ignorant. He is an ingenuous person. You get what he thinks every time, no guile, no sugar coating. He is not pompous or arrogant but rather shy. He is not well suited to being mobbed by fans, but he is gracious to fans none-the-less. He has been climbing by himself & for himself for almost his entire life. Anything else is a distraction. He loves what he is doing every day. He lived in his van and climbed b4 sponsors, that is his bliss
Flag This@bottleneck Much different than trying to end life intentionally. Pushing boundaries beyond known limits is what humans do. Outside is publishing as this about a person on the cutting edge in his sport. There is no parity between climbing and anorexic models. ---- @antonio G i feel his attitude is not an asset for his well being or the sport, sadly reminiscent of teenage bravado rather than athleticism. ---- You clearly haven't spent time with my cousin. Magazine quotes don't a person make
Flag ThisPeter Croft and John Bachar both soloed much harder routes than the article suggests. Further, the idea that Croft rehearsed every climb meticulously before soloing it is also incorrect (not that this technique for those who aspire to free solo isn't a good idea!!!) JG...is that John Gill! The history of those who have died from free soloing continues to point to this being a rather unwise pursuit. Free soloing is a fascinating thing, but not something to admire necessarily.
Flag ThisYou can achieve a similar head space (key word: similar) when running it out on sparse protection and still greatly reduce the risks of a fatal fall. While Bachar's exploits always captivated and excited me, I always more greatly admired Ron Kauk who more often than not left soloing to Bachar and others and instead focused on pushing the standards of free climbing and maximizing his ability.
Flag ThisHonnold and his accomplishments are simply incredible, but it needs to be clear that the climbing community by and large would agree that this is not the direction of the sport and is instead an intensely personal decision. It should be clear to aspiring climbers and Outside magazine readers that one must not necessarily take great risks to enjoy all the things that climbing has to offer. I wish Honnold all the best and hope for his safety. To others, climb well and climb safe!
Flag ThisI have to wonder if Alex is not a high-functioning autistic, given the way he presents himself and his ability to control fear.
Flag ThisHe's a selfish idiot who has no regard to what happens when he dies--and he will die doing something this extraordinarily stupid. Somebody else, probably the taxpayers and Yosemite, will end up scraping him off the valley floor.
Flag ThisWhy is everyone so upset about this guy? He does amazing things that scare the absolute crap out of us, is that why? I am new to climbing and I can see a bare inkling of what it takes to put your head in the right spot to do what he does, let along your feet and hands. But the point is, he is doing what he is doing because he loves it. He climbs alone, doesn't even tell anyone when he goes but all these comments sound like he is trying so hard to garner attention and make everyone look at him. The whole point is, he is not doing this for you so what you think about it matters not at all. @Tonysam: what is wrong with this sort of selfishness? How does it harm you? Alex has money enough to pay to be scraped off whatever valley floor so he isn't endangering any hapless taxpayers. What is the problem?
Flag ThisWhy is everyone so upset about this guy? He does amazing things that scare the absolute crap out of us, is that why? I am new to climbing and I can see a bare inkling of what it takes to put your head in the right spot to do what he does, let along your feet and hands. But the point is, he is doing what he is doing because he loves it. He climbs alone, doesn't even tell anyone when he goes but all these comments sound like he is trying so hard to garner attention and make everyone look at him. The whole point is, he is not doing this for you so what you think about it matters not at all. @Tonysam: what is wrong with this sort of selfishness? How does it harm you? Alex has money enough to pay to be scraped off whatever valley floor so he isn't endangering any hapless taxpayers. What is the problem?
Flag ThisIncredible talent. Many could be doctors given the oppurtunity. Many could climb with ropes given time. Only a handful can do what he does. It's a skill to be admired, not ridiculed. If he dies doing what he loves, so be it. That's between him and his loved ones. As a father of two and turning 40, I can see the beauty of life and what he'd be missing if he went so young. But I also know if you live with regrets, there will always be a void.
Flag Thisthere is always a void to fill for everyone.
Flag Thisthere is always a void to fill for everyone.
Flag ThisNo one could be a bigger fan than me when it comes to what Honnold has done. When you place your life at such risk, you might as well do it thousands of feet in the air (provided you have the mental and physical endurance) where the environment is magical, rather than on just the smaller walls. The inspiration he has provided me is of the life-changing variety, even if I never climb again. (I'm 57.) Having said that, I wish Sender Films would be straightforward when it comes to providing details of Honnold's reenactment on Half Dome. When we see Honnold reenacting his "freak out" on "Thank God Ledge" (which he apparently rappelled to for the reenactment), we hear him say that he is "freaking out" as if he were reenacting a comment he made to a witness of his original free solo. We then hear the voice of that "witness" tell Honnold to "just come back if you're not feeling it". So far, I can only surmise that this is Sender Film's attempt to plant the notion in the viewer that Honnold's free solo was witnessed. But of course it was not witnessed. I have no reason to doubt Honnold's claim that he free soloed Half Dome, but I'm disturbed by Sender Film's underhanded device of what amounts to revisionist history. I have not been able to find any commentary from Sender Films regarding the details of the reenactment, or regarding what they were attempting to communicate in the just mentioned scene. I'd like to hear from anyone who has better information.
Flag ThisNo one could be a bigger fan than me when it comes to what Honnold has done. When you place your life at such risk, you might as well do it thousands of feet in the air (provided you have the mental and physical endurance) where the environment is magical, rather than on just the smaller walls. The inspiration he has provided me is of the life-changing variety, even if I never climb again. (I'm 57.) Having said that, I wish Sender Films would be straightforward when it comes to providing details of Honnold's reenactment on Half Dome. When we see Honnold reenacting his "freak out" on "Thank God Ledge" (which he apparently rappelled to for the reenactment), we hear him say that he is "freaking out" as if he were reenacting a comment he made to a witness of his original free solo. We then hear the voice of that "witness" tell Honnold to "just come back if you're not feeling it". So far, I can only surmise that this is Sender Film's attempt to plant the notion in the viewer that Honnold's free solo was witnessed. But of course it was not witnessed. I have no reason to doubt Honnold's claim that he free soloed Half Dome, but I'm disturbed by Sender Film's underhanded device of what amounts to revisionist history. I have not been able to find any commentary from Sender Films regarding the details of the reenactment, or regarding what they were attempting to communicate in the just mentioned scene. I'd like to hear from anyone who has better information.
Flag ThisAll I can do is shake my head when I hear people try to understand what he does. They put themselves in his place and then try to make sense of it. Unfortunately it does not work that way. Most people including myself hold onto life as if it made a difference. As if what we do everyday added up to something. If you think about it our life is nothing in the scheme of the universe you really have nothing to lose. So why not, if you can, get a look at that universe, the one inside you as well as the one out, in a way that no one else has. I'm truly jealous. Then again maybe its just my midlife crisis coming out.
Flag ThisI so appreciate his skill. He is remarkable. But Alex told Leslie Stahl that he may be too close to it to see what others may, about the risk. He knows it. You see, he has amazing skill, but what happens when the unexpected happens? A critical hand hold comes loose at the wrong time. A piece of rock falls away. He absolutely cannot grab onto anything to get beyond his position. All he can do is stay put or fall. What then? He rolls the dice every time he climbs. I hope it never happens, but...
Flag ThisI'm not talking about him making a dumb move and slipping. I don't think he'd ever do that--he's too good and has too keen a sense of climbing. What I mean is that he goes off climbing by himself, with no back up. There's no one there to provide assistance if he needs it, if he gets stranded somehow. Not even having that is just crazy and asking for trouble. I do appreciate the need for solitude, but he should treat the extreme risks with a more careful attitude than care free. A very skilled climbing friend of his said "I've fallen completely unexpectedly lots of times—maybe a dozen—on relatively easy terrain, when a hold broke off or the rubber peeled off the sole of my shoe or something. If I'd been soloing, I'd have died." Honnold shrugged. "Hey, we've all gotta die sometime. You might as well go big." What? He didn't say "I'm extremely careful and have a keen sense of climbing holds, and not only buy the best shoes, but check them out thoroughly before I go every time." Rather, he welcomes the death risk? You see, that's what you have to consider here.
Flag ThisA top climbing friend said "I've fallen completely unexpectedly lots of times—maybe a dozen—on relatively easy terrain, when a hold broke off or the rubber peeled off the sole of my shoe or something. If I'd been soloing, I'd have died." Honnold shrugged. "Hey, we've all gotta die sometime. You might as well go big." He didn't say "I'm extremely careful & have a keen sense of climbing holds, buy the best shoes & check them out thoroughly each climb." Rather, he welcomes the death risk?
Flag ThisWe all view the world in different ways. What Alex sees is not what you or I see. Where I see a crimp Alex sees a jug. Where I see pain Alex sees an itch. As long as Alex stays within his world view he will likely survive. But all things change. Free Soloing probably should not be continued fore a whole life or climbing career. How we view the world changes as we grow older and its not just numbers that can catch up to you. You're own attitude can slip into other realms and if that happens on a Free Solo it might not be so good. I cut him slack for any sharpness of attitude he displays, he's a nice guy playing a high stakes game and we should be so quick to judge. He is what he is and we don't need to watch if we don't like something about that. Peace to you Alex.
Flag ThisAmazing, unbelieverable, fearless accomplishments, no doubt. Is the world a better place because of same?
Flag ThisHe's amazingly talented, but I just can't wrap my mind around what the point is of risking his life like this? If he enjoys climbing, climb with a rope. If you risk your life for a greater cause, I can understand that--my grandfather died in WWII. But this is senseless risking of life, in my humble opinion.
Flag ThisAlex Honnold standing up on Thank God Ledge reminds me of Aron Ralston cutting off his arm stuck between two rocks. These guys have achieved a mental state to act in service to their natural desires. If each of us could duplicate that, within our own natural desires, the world would surely change.
Flag ThisI like the way he treated the fifty year old climbers, and I appreciate the fact that at the culmination of his big solo of Half Dome, there was no media. His love of the sport is clearly pure, as is his self-awareness. Great article with a great denouement.
Flag ThisI like the way he treated the fifty year old climbers, and I appreciate the fact that at the culmination of his big solo of Half Dome, there was no media. His love of the sport is clearly pure, as is his self-awareness. Great article with a great denouement.
Flag ThisPretty cool dude. A temporary dude, but pretty cool. There are old climbers, and bold climbers...............
Flag ThisI think Alex has a right to do whatever he wants with his life. But I wish they would not publicize it -- or the free soloing of any climber, for that matter. There is a kid at the local gym in Sacramento where Alex sometimes climbs when he is in town. This kid is maybe seven years old and idolizes Alex. The kid is very good for his age -- competing already. He says he can't wait to go outside and free-solo like Alex. Yes, I find that to be a bit disturbing.
Flag ThisI can see both sides and where you are coming from. Yes, I wish he would stop soloing because I don't want to see him die, but its his life. I am almost positive that he checks the little equipment he used before he climbs. He might seem stuck up and arrogant, but do you see him bragging, Oh, look at me, I climbed half dome, I'm the best climber on this god dang earth? No, you don't! He said he wished some one noticed what he had accomplished, but did he tell everyone, no! If he says that doing publicity stuff is bull crap, its his opinion! He climbs for himself, not North Face and Black Diamond!
Flag ThisI find it very disturbing that a young man would place himself in such outrageously dangerous circumstances on purpose. It shows little respect for the value of his own life. We are not talking here about someone pursuing a sport involving a measure of danger. We are talking about someone who throws away all "safeguards" and places himself beyong the pale of possible rescue. There are too many circumstances over which he has no control to scale precipices like he does without ropes. That is not brave, but foolhardy. I cannot help but feel that this man is in some sort of spiritual or emotional bondage that drives him to disregard the value of his life in this way, and I pray that he will find deliverance.
Flag ThisI find it very disturbing that a young man would place himself in such outrageously dangerous circumstances on purpose. It shows little respect for the value of his own life. We are not talking here about someone pursuing a sport involving a measure of danger. We are talking about someone who throws away all "safeguards" and places himself beyong the pale of possible rescue. There are too many circumstances over which he has no control to scale precipices like he does without ropes. That is not brave, but foolhardy. I cannot help but feel that this man is in some sort of spiritual or emotional bondage that drives him to disregard the value of his life in this way, and I pray that he will find deliverance.
Flag ThisI don't see where any of you naysayers get off on this guy. It's his life, let him live it, short or long. He lives his life in a space that 99.999% of humans will never reach. You should be so lucky to be that focused talented. He may die doing this, but I can guarantee you that he will not care what the world thinks of him. Climb on Alex, you are an inspiration to many.
Flag ThisClimbing is so fantastic because everyone of us can experience the same elation as elite climbers like Alex and Chris Sharma when we climb to our potential. We also lose fear we previously possessed because its replaced with confidence in our ability. I haven't climbed now for a couple years and the fear is back, but the rat has never gone away and I hope to feed it again some day soon.
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