Outside Magazine, March 2012
Tuesday, January 31, 2012 16

Winter Climbing Gone Bad

Mixed Climbing Avalanche Accident

;

As told to Scott Yorko

Money Comment: “Potent reminder that surviving the fall is only the start of your troubles in alpine climbing. Heal fast.”
Cameraman:
Ed Warren, 26, of West Lebanon, New Hampshire
After 25 minutes anchored to ice screws, I turned off my GoPro. Belaying makes boring video, even when you’re 450 feet up a 70-degree slope. My partner, Brice, was a rope length above me, chopping through snow slabs that blocked the chute we’d been climbing in Wyoming’s Snowy Range since 8 a.m. Brice triggered the avalanche and fell with it for almost 200 feet before the rope caught him. When it hit me, the snow was going 70 mph and knocked me off the wall. After it stopped, Brice was fine, but I was hanging upside down with a crampon pressed into the flesh of my shattered ankle. I was shocked to be alive. I instinctively turned my helmet cam back on as soon as I righted myself, rappelled down the cliff, and then crawled two miles back to the car, filming the whole way.

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Comments

16
Micah Stiegler

When Ed Warren is being dragged & is crawling, they have some nice tribute music to Joe Simpson & 'Touching the Void'... I guess out of all of us, he might be able to comprehend what that whole experience was kind of like... I too, would hate to die listening to that song... (Boney M - "Brown Girl in the Ring") :-) All nice videos, but this one takes the cake in my book, for many reasons, including the sheer brutality & magnitude of the situation & the endurance of his determination...

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Micah Stiegler

When Ed Warren is being dragged & is crawling, they have some nice tribute music to Joe Simpson & 'Touching the Void'... I guess out of all of us, he might be able to comprehend what that whole experience was kind of like... I too, would hate to die listening to that song... (Boney M - "Brown Girl in the Ring") :-) All nice videos, but this one takes the cake in my book, for many reasons, including the sheer brutality & magnitude of the situation & the endurance of his determination...

Flag This
Micah Stiegler

When Ed Warren is being dragged & is crawling, they have some nice tribute music to Joe Simpson & 'Touching the Void'... I guess out of all of us, he might be able to comprehend what that whole experience was kind of like... I too, would hate to die listening to that song... (Boney M - "Brown Girl in the Ring") :-) All nice videos, but this one takes the cake in my book, for many reasons, including the sheer brutality & magnitude of the situation & the endurance of his determination...

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