Wednesday, September 01, 2010 1

36. Get Bent

On our 2010 Life List: get bent.

By:
Waimea Bay

Waimea Bay    Photographer: Robert Beck

When the North Shore's Waimea Bay breaks, usually only a few times each winter, surfers head to its outer reef, where waves can reach more than 20 feet. Which leaves the crushing beach break free for a handful of fearless boogie boarders. "They take off hoping to get barreled," says Carlsbad, California-based photographer Robert Beck, "and that maybe someone takes a photo of them. Then they just wait for the rinse cycle to end. Where that guy is going to land is no more than three feet deep. I don't know if you'd really call it 'riding the wave,' but you have to give him credit for something."
THE TOOLS: Nikon D3, 400mm f/2.8 lens, ISO 200, f/4, 1/2,000 second.

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Senor Pescado

beach break front of my house, Playa San Diego,El Salvador been surfing 45 years, this almost 'bent me' 2 times, almost died, but surfers worldwide will say Cape Hatteras, closest to death

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