Allen Sarlo

With Mark Foo's surfboard

Mark always kept a surfboard at my house in California, just like I stored boards at his house in Hawaii. After he died, I inherited his Todos Santos board, which is made for riding giant surf. It has the word foo painted on it. It reminds me of him because he was fearless in the water. He was a little flashy and brash, but he could always back up his talk. He took off deeper than anybody. If I did three turns on the wave, he'd do four. We were friends for almost 20 years and owned a place together right on Waimea Bay. We were there the night before he died. We'd been surfing Waimea all day, and he said, "Allen, I'm going to Maverick's. The surf is going to be great. I'll be back for Christmas." He was a pioneer of forecasting and chasing swells. He'd always been fascinated by hitting a swell in Hawaii one day and then flying to California and catching it at Maverick's the next. I was lying on the couch half asleep, and he was packing his boards. I remember waving goodbye and saying, "OK, I'll see you in a couple days." That was the last time I saw him alive.

In 1994, Foo, 37, drowned while surfing Maverick's, presumably after his leash caught on rocks underwater. Sarlo, 53, a prominent member of the original Z-Boys surf and skateboard crew, is a real estate agent in California.

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