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BEST FOR: Packing light, moving fast.
THE TEST: Designed by Swiss speed climber Ueli Steck, this ultralight (under 10 ounces) waterproof-breathable anorak is about as simple as it gets, with a small hood that fits best under, not over, a helmet (Steck prefers the close-to-head, under-helmet fit) and a single non-zippered pocket inside the chest. The only real creature comfort is the soft, thumb-hole-equipped cuffs, which are certainly cozy—until they get wet. On damp days, the fabric sponged up water as we climbed.
THE VERDICT: Optimal for anyone looking for a packable, just-in-case hard shell for winter, spring, or fall. 9 oz
Breathability: 4
Weatherproofness: 4
