Going Places: Tales from the road: Outdoor travel in Australia

Heaven at the edge of nowhere

Quantas flies from Los Angeles to Sydney daily and Ansett flies the various legs to get from Sydney to Broome regularly. For reservations call Quantas, 1-800-227-4500, and Ansett, 1-800-366-1300.

The Cable Beach Club has tastefully decorated double rooms from $150-$205. It has four restaurants, two pools, and 12 tennis courts, plus room service that will bring you an entire roast chicken when you order the poulet. Phone: (61) 91-920-400. Fax: (61) 91-922-249.

For those who can't quite stretch their wallets for the Cable Club, the Last Resort is the most deluxe backpackers lodge I have yet stumbled into. For $15 a night you get a private room with native timber floors, clean sheets, a bar, restaurant, pool, Ping-Pong, billiards and the best-looking bunch of fellow travelers (partyers?) I've ever seen. Phone: (61) 91-935-000. Fax: (61) 91-936-033.

The Kooljaman bungalows at Cape Leveque go for $60-$90 per night depending on the season and the number of guests. Each bungalow can sleep up to six people. Phone: (61) 91-924-970. Fax: (61) 91-924-978. Reservations essential.

Visiting One Arm Point
To contact Irene Davies and arrange a trip out to One Arm Point and Sunday Island, call Kooljaman. Phone: (61) 91-924-970. Fax: (61) 91-924-978.

Car rental
ATC Rent A Car rents 4WDs from the Broome airport for about $70 per day (Australian). Make sure you have them lower the tire pressure in preparation for driving on the treacherous pindan, and check that there is a spare in good shape. Phone: (61) 91-937-788. Fax: (61) 91-936-693.

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