"I'm in the place where I've had a few kids and lost my own dad last summer."
"It's this transitional period, where part of me is reaching in one direction and trying to hold on to the people I'm losing, and part of me is reaching the other way to hold on to these new kids coming into the world."
"I'm definitely starting to feel more like a father."
"I would look out and see what [my dad] was doing on these big waves. I'd think, Holy cow, do I have to do that one day?"
"My dad led me to the water and said, 'Here you go. Be careful.'"
"You have to sit there and decide when you're ready."
"And slowly, I would go out when it was knee-high."
"And then you start surfing waist-high. Next thing you know, you're surfing waves as tall as you."
"One day you break a leash a quarter-mile offshore in 20-foot surf and you're not scared at all. You realize you've gone through that rite of passage."