8. Bishop Bouldering Blog

A direct line into one of the world's most dynamic climbing scenes

Dec 1, 2011
Outside Magazine

Good for: Anyone who loves the East Side of California.

Written by: Bishop local and guidebook author Wills Young.

This blog has one very narrowly-defined purpose: to record and report cutting-edge ascents from Bishop, California, one of the hubs of U.S. bouldering. Young wrote the definitive guidebook to Bishop’s massive granite and volcanic boulder fields, and he’s meticulous in his role as historian, supplementing his news posts with detailed background on the problems, high-quality photos, and, whenever possible, uncut video of ascents. It's a direct line into the heart of one of the world's most vibrant climbing scenes, wherever you are in the world.

Sample post: This history of Paul Robinson's V16 highball Lucid Dreaming is a perfect example of the attention to detail Young brings to the blog.

"This line is the bafflingly hard sit start to Jared Roth's 2002 highball, Rastaman Vibration (v12) on the left side of the Grandpa Peabody's south face. Roth began his original problem at a high pinch, setting feet on the rock before making a desperate dyno to snag a fingertip edge. The crux over, v6-ish moves then led to the highball finish that he described as an epic hair-raiser. Sticking that first move alone though, was hard enough that only three or four people have ever done it. But not one had felt the urge to repeat the original line, by continuing on to the finish, perhaps feeling that the high topout was too sketchy to be worth the effort for a second ascent while the obvious and tantalizing sit-start was so nearly within grasp.

However, the "Rasta Sit Project" rebuffed all-comers, and steadily began to take on mythic status as the hardest well-tried project in the West, turning away everyone that came knocking, including Matt Birch, and Paul Robinson two years running."

Read more at the Bishop Bouldering Blog

Filed To: Rock Climbing