A Highlight Reel of Surfers Paddling Into Jaws


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Aside from using an alias when hitting up Starbucks, big wave surfer Shane Dorian leaves the Maui airport just like anyone else. He hauls his own luggage—albeit 100 pounds of customized surfboards—and waits curbside for a pickup. Once he reaches the water, though, differences become apparent.

Seared Peahi is a five-minute short that shows big wave surfers paddling into the monster swell that hit Jaws on October 9 and 10. During that session, a number of riders—Dorian, Greg Long, Albee Layer, Makua Rothman, and others—racked up early entries into the 2013 Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards. What's amazing about their rides is that they are paddling into a wave that became famous after men started towing into it via jet skis. Dorian had the most talked about session by paddling into multiple mutant barrels, making it unlikely that anyone on the beach would not know his real name.

—Joe Spring